Rock climbing shoes feature various types of rubber, each designed to provide specific qualities and performance characteristics to meet the needs of different climbing styles and terrain. These include:
Vibram XS Edge: Known for its stiffness and durability, it's often used in climbing shoes designed for edging, where precision and support are crucial, providing excellent support on small edges and good performance on steep terrain.
Vibram XS Grip: Sticky and providing high friction, it's used in all-around climbing shoes for bouldering and sport climbing. Climbers appreciate its excellent grip on a variety of surfaces, making it suitable for smearing* and standing on footholds.
Vibram XS Grip 2: An improved version of XS Grip, this rubber is even stickier and more responsive. It's often found in high-performance climbing shoes designed for steep and overhanging routes.
Stealth C4: Developed by Five Ten (now owned by Adidas), it's known for exceptional stickiness and friction. Favored by many for its superior grip on both rock and plastic holds, climbing shoes with Stealth C4 rubber are popular for bouldering, sport climbing, and trad** climbing.
Stealth HF (High Friction): offers a balance between stickiness and durability. It provides reliable performance on a variety of surfaces and is often used in all-around climbing shoes for a range of climbing styles.
Stealth Mi6: is incredibly soft and sticky. It excels on smooth, polished surfaces and is frequently used in climbing shoes designed for indoor climbing, gym climbing, and technical slab climbing.
La Sportiva Vibram XS Grip 2: This is La Sportiva's version of Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber. It’s used in many of their high-performance climbing shoes for a combination of grip and durability. Best for steep and technical climbing.
Trax XE: Commonly found in Evolv climbing shoes, it's known for its stickiness and versatility, making it suitable for many climbing styles, from bouldering to trad.
Trax SAS (Semi-Stiff): Provides a balance between stiffness and stickiness and is often used in climbing shoes designed for edging and vertical routes where precision and support are essential.
Climbing shoe manufacturers develop their proprietary rubber compounds to achieve specific performance characteristics. These may vary in stickiness, durability, and sensitivity. The choice of rubber can significantly impact a climber's performance and comfort on the rock. The ideal rubber type for you will depend on your climbing style, the types of routes you prefer, and your personal preferences for stickiness and durability. When selecting climbing shoes, consider trying on different models with various rubber types to find the one that best suits your needs and climbing objectives.
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*In rock climbing, "smearing" refers to a climbing technique used when there are no visible holds or footholds on the rock surface, or when holds are too small to grip with your hands or place your feet on. Smearing involves using the friction between the climbing shoe and the rock to support your body weight and gain upward progress. Here's how smearing works:
Foot Placement: To smear, you'll press the sole of your climbing shoe directly onto the rock surface, making full contact with as much rubber as possible. This creates friction between the shoe and the rock, allowing your foot to stick to the surface.
Weight Transfer: As you smear your foot on the rock, you'll transfer your body weight onto that foot. By pressing down and trusting the friction, you can support your weight on the smeared foot, which allows you to take your weight off your hands and conserve energy.
Body Positioning: Achieving the correct body position is essential when smearing. You'll often need to lean your body toward the smeared foot to maximize friction and maintain balance. Your hands may also be used for balance and stability, especially when you're not able to find good handholds.
Gentle Movements: Smearing requires smooth and controlled movements. Avoid sudden or jerky motions, as they can reduce the effectiveness of the friction and lead to slipping. Gradually shift your weight onto the smeared foot and make deliberate, controlled steps.
Visual Assessment: Before smearing, visually inspect the rock surface to identify the best area for smearing. Look for features with good texture and grip. Not all rock surfaces are suitable for smearing, so it's essential to choose your footholds wisely.
Smearing is a valuable climbing technique, especially on slab climbs where the angle of the rock is less than vertical. It's also commonly used on friction climbs and routes with limited holds. Smearing can be challenging because it requires climbers to trust the friction between their shoes and the rock. Proper climbing shoe selection, foot placement, and body positioning are key factors in successful smearing. With practice, climbers can become more skilled at using this technique to ascend routes that lack traditional footholds.
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**Trad climbing, short for "traditional climbing," is a style of rock climbing in which climbers place and remove their own protective gear, or "trad gear," as they ascend a route. Unlike sport climbing, where fixed bolts are used for protection, trad climbers rely on removable devices such as nuts, cams, and slings to safeguard themselves in the event of a fall. The key features of trad climbing include:
Placement of Protection: Trad climbers carry a selection of specialized gear that is placed into cracks, fissures, and other natural features in the rock to create anchor points for the rope. The gear is removable and does not leave a permanent mark on the rock.
Traditional Climbing Ethics: Trad climbing emphasizes preserving the natural environment and minimizing the impact on the rock, discouraging installation of bolts or fixed hardware on routes where traditional protection can be used.
Leader and Follower: In trad climbing, the leader is the climber who ascends first and places protection. The follower, often called the "second," follows the leader and removes the placed gear as they go. This process repeats for each pitch or section of the climb.
Risk Management: Trad climbing involves a higher degree of risk management compared to sport climbing because the protection is placed by the climber and is not always as secure as a fixed bolt. Make careful decisions about gear placement and assess the rock's quality to ensure your safety and that of your partner.
Skill and Experience: Trad climbing requires a strong foundation of climbing skills and serious understanding of gear placement and anchor building. You’ll need to know how to assess rock quality, judge the stability of placements, and create safe and reliable anchor systems. Choosing an equally-experienced climbing partner is key.
Adventure and Exploration: Trad climbing appeals to those seeking a more adventurous climbing experience. Climbers may seek out remote or less-traveled routes, and part of the challenge is route-finding and problem-solving while on the climb.
Variety of Terrain: Trad climbing can be done on various types of rock and terrain, including cracks, chimneys, faces, and multi-pitch routes, allowing you to tackle a range of challenges.
Traditional Gear: a harness, climbing shoes, a helmet, a rope, and a rack of trad gear that includes nuts & hexes, as well as camming devices (cams), slings (aka runners), and carabiners.
Trad climbing is deeply rooted in the history of rock climbing and remains a popular style. It’s a blend of physical and mental challenges, requiring problem-solving skills, technical expertise, and a keen understanding of safety. If you’re interested in trad climbing, consider formal training, and always gain experience on easier routes before tackling more challenging climbs.
