Why Does Climbing Shoe Rubber Matter?
Climbing shoe rubber matters for several reasons, but primarily because it directly affects your performance and safety while climbing on rock.
Other reasons it's important:
Grip and Friction: the rubber on climbing shoes is designed to provide friction against the rock surface. A good rubber compound will stick to the rock, allowing you to confidently stand on small holds, smear on smooth surfaces, or edge on tiny ledges. Without adequate grip, you risk slipping off holds, which can be dangerous, especially on high climbs.
Precision and Sensitivity: the rubber's thickness, stiffness, and texture influence the sensitivity of your climbing shoes. Softer rubber offers more sensitivity, allowing you to feel the texture of the rock and make precise foot placements. This is particularly important on delicate or technical climbs where every millimeter counts. Conversely, stiffer rubbers may sacrifice some sensitivity but provide better support on small edges and micro-holds.
Durability: climbing shoe rubber needs to withstand the rigors of climbing, including abrasion against rough rock surfaces and repeated flexing. Durable rubber compounds maintain their grip and performance over time, reducing the frequency of resoling and saving you money in the long run. But there's often a trade-off between durability and stickiness, with softer rubbers typically wearing out faster than firmer ones.
Terrain Adaptability: different types of climbing terrain require different rubber properties. Steep and overhanging routes demand stickier rubbers for smearing and gripping, while vertical or slab climbs benefit from stiffer rubbers for precise edging. When you choose the right rubber compound, you’ll optimize your climbing performance for the specific terrain you're tackling.
Performance: the quality of your climbing shoe rubber will significantly impact your overall climbing performance. When you trust your shoes to stick to the rock, you're more likely to attempt challenging moves and push your limits, whereas inadequate rubber may lead to hesitation, fear of falling, or even accidents.
So, climbing shoe rubber matters because it directly influences your grip, precision, durability, adaptability to different terrains, and overall climbing performance. Choosing the rubber compound tailored to your climbing style will make for an overall better experience on the rock. Climb on!
What Types of Rubber I Can Choose from to Resole My Climbing Shoes?
Several types of rubber used in climbing shoe resoling are available, each will be different in stickiness, durability, and sensitivity.
Some of the most popular types:
Vibram XS Edge: is a popular choice, known for its durability and stiffness. It provides excellent edging performance, making it suitable for climbing on small footholds and edges. However, it may sacrifice some sensitivity compared to softer rubbers.
Vibram XS Grip 2: is another great option, offering a good balance between stickiness and durability. It provides reliable friction on a variety of surfaces and performs well on both smearing and edging.
Vibram XS Grip: is softer and stickier than XS Edge, making it ideal for steep and overhanging terrain where smearing and grip are crucial. But it tends to wear out faster, particularly on abrasive rock..
Stealth C4: developed by Five Ten (now owned by Adidas Outdoor), this rubber is renowned for its unparalleled stickiness. It excels on steep terrain and is favored by many climbers for bouldering and sport climbing, however, it may wear out relatively quickly.
Stealth HF (High Friction): is another high-performance rubber from Five Ten. It offers excellent stickiness and sensitivity. It's softer than C4, so you’ll get an exceptional grip on a wide range of rock types. Again, it may not be as durable as some firmer rubbers.
Vibram XS Flash: is a relatively new addition to Vibram's lineup, designed to offer a balance between stickiness and durability. It provides good performance on both edges and smears, making it a versatile choice.
Trax Rubber: is another proprietary rubber used by several climbing shoe manufacturers. It's known for its stickiness and reliability, particularly on indoor climbing walls and artificial holds.
When choosing a rubber for resoling your climbing shoes, consider your climbing style and the type of terrain you frequent. Softer rubbers like Stealth C4 or Vibram XS Grip are ideal for steep and overhanging routes where maximum grip is essential, while firmer rubbers like Vibram XS Edge are better suited for vertical or slab climbing where precision and durability are priorities. It's also worth consulting with a professional resoler or the manufacturer of your climbing shoes for recommendations based on your specific needs.
